Wednesday, February 28, 2007

I'll miss you Jan




These artists produced widely celebrated works of art while dependent upon or inspired by drugs or alcohol:

Ken Kesey
Jack Kerouac
Kurt Cobain
Janis Joplin
Jean-Michelle Basquiat
Keats
Byron
Jimi Hendrix
Vincent Van Gogh
Ernest Hemmingway
Coleridge
Faulkner
Steinbeck
Jackson Pollock
Keith Harring

Today, Jan Ullrich retired from his profession as professional cyclist. Today our sport loses one of it greatest artists of all time.

Tuesday, February 27, 2007

Another Hike... Another Panorama


I went on my own hike on our rest day and found plenty of hiking trails up to great lookouts over the town. Here's a panorama from the top, which includes a cool small church.

Phil Liggett Poetry

Phil Liggett is a legendary cycling commentator; here are some excerps from "Dancing on the Pedals" edited by Doug Donaldson.

It's only a mountain,
one of many you can see
on this French country morning
but for one hundred seventy-one young men
it would be a place
where they would dare
to ask themselves
the questions
of greatness

-1987

That is probably why Richard Virenque has been told
to go out early on the attack.
Well, he's the carrot for the rest to follow.
We climb up again toward the skyline here
and Virenque is stepping out
the message.

-1993

Monday, February 26, 2007

Hike


I hiked this morning up into the rocky ravine that looms above our heads this side of Alcoy. A steep range is almost always in view at any site of Alcoy's perimeter, but this particular formation is especially spectacular because of the deep but narrow slash through it. A small rock path wound its way past an abandoned factory on the outskirts of town and then up into the evergreen forests and dry chalky soil that lay hidden behind the cliff faces.

On the path I passed a number of small houses inaccessible by car. I also passed a donkey who was tied up eating grass. I untangled his tether and gave him two dried apricots. His thick wooly coat was white and tendrils of dread-locked hair covered his eyes. His ears were at leat a foot long, very long ears. I stopped and read Salvador Plascencia's "People of Paper" for awhile.

When I passed through the ravine I was looking up. My eye caught onto the movement of a hawk riding hot air pockets at the very top of the cliff face. It was high enough up that I watched the bird in the same way you look at a faint star, by looking away from it or looking past it; or when you have to focus on one blade of grass to see the army of ants marching below it. Looking up into the clouds, more and more birds of prey entered the realm of my strange kind of hyper-stare, and I thought of Hitchcock. They had been spurred to drop from their eyries merely by my entrance. I was walking onto a rocky stage where the daily ritual of the rodent dance was enacted, the perfomer being swept up in a flurry of holy sacrifice by the viewer with the truest opera glasses. My performance was less captivating than the tit mice hidden behind the rocks- the hawks soon returned with gracefull dives and stalls to their caved nests and my staring revealed nothing to me but sunspots.

Sunday, February 25, 2007

Out and About

Well, I apologize a tiny bit for that last post; I was still a little bit high on dopamine or whatever else pumps through your head while exercising. And there wasn't much blood in the brain anyway -- it was all in my stomach dealing with the massive post-ride meal.

Another pretty cool ride today. I was just rolling around, so I had a chance to make some panorama shots. Let us know what ya think.




Notes

Spanish pillows are roughly equal in volume to American pillows but their shape is oblong instead of being nearly square. Another thing is that all Spanish houses I have been in feel noticeably uninsulated and metallic and hard. They give a sense of being in a toolshed or greenhouse because most everything is stucco or linoleum or tile or metal; usually very little wood. Never are the floors carpeted, and rarely do they have rugs. It is rude to be inside a house as a guest barefoot or in socks without shoes or slippers. Kitchens are without exception lighted flourescently. Very few people use driers- instead, houses are accessorized with extendable drying racks that protrude from balconies or windows. Bread is rarely eaten in molded and sliced form. More common are small toasted cracker bread or fresh baguettes. Cheap wine is surprisingly good, and surprisingly cheap. Vegetables and fruit items are ridiculously expensive. I just bought bananas on sale for about $1 per pound and large cucumbers normally cost about $1.50. Milk is sold in cardboard cartons like giant juice boxes and is treated so that it doesn't require refridgeration; it has a strange aftertaste and odor that DuBois has identified as synonymous with his own olfactory aura after having consumed a large volume of soy milk. Shopping carts require a spare Euro coin to detach an individual from the bunch by means of a locking mechanism, the coin being returned when the cart is re-inserted to the stacked line. Front doors to houses have a doorknob in the center, not the sides, and they do not twist. Sidewalks are rarely smooth, poured cement. Instead they are tiled and dog shit gets stuck between the cracks along with chewing gum. All cars mechanics wear unisuits that are usually bright blue or red. Showers usually don't have fixed heads, but hoses with the heads at the end which you support yourself as you shower. There is no turkey meat in Spain.

More of my own self-observed stereotypes to come.

Saturday, February 24, 2007

Clear Skies, Empty Roads

There's some saying that goes like this: "Life should not be measured in how many breaths you take, but how many moments take your breath away." After today, my life measures quite a bit larger, with one big, 5 hour breathless moment. That's how great my ride felt.

When I tell people that I'm in Spain, riding a bike, sometimes they wonder what is wrong with me and sometimes they're jealous. Those that are jealous usually imagine days like I had today: epic views of the Mediterranean, smooth black roads that wind through deserted towns set between large rocky outcroppings or placed neatly on the side of a valley. The town's largest building, the church, sits white and prominent in the bright sunlight and always catches your eye as you look out over green valleys. And in the drier spots, as you curve along canyon walls coming from one hilltop and on your way to the next, feelings of solitude and contentment really sink in. Just you, your bike, the blue sky, and the road.

Today my legs felt great. I felt like a cyclist. It felt like up until today, I had only been pretending, but now I had something real in my legs. Some tough stuff. Whether or not that's true remains to be seen, but being able to smoothly blow through a strong 5 hour ride really builds confidence.

Sorry for no pictures, but on harder days like today there's no real opportunity for dilly-dallying with the camera. My pockets are usually stuffed full: extra tube, tire levers, two small sandwiches with that stale bread and jelly, a small sandwich with white bread and nutella, some graham crackers, and then gloves and a hat. When it's too warm to wear my vest, I take it off, roll it up, and stuff it under my shirt behind my back. I was able to do that while riding today! And I also practiced peeing while riding. It's difficult, but it works. :)

A shout out to Crosby Freeman who just found out he got a stress fracture in his metatarsal. Hope he recovers quickly and can use his 1:05:55 half marathon speed again soon!

Friday, February 23, 2007

Riding to Agres



Just another easy day... played around with the video stuff for a while.

Thursday, February 22, 2007

Easy Day



After an easy day of exercises for my knee and riding on the trainer yesterday, I headed out today with Chris and Chris for a low pace three hour ride. Aside from a bit of rain and stubbornly cold temperatures, we had a pleasant jaunt over our default climb of Beniarés. Unfortunately, to avoid rain on the other side of the pass, we turned back instead of completing the full loop which DuBois has affectionately named "Las Mandarinas". As the title suggests, the final part of the route carries us by a grove of Clementine Orange trees which we take the liberty of sampling each time we pass. Last time I picked up around 15 of these little citrus gems from the ground and spent the rest of the week enjoying the best oranges I've ever tasted for breakfast every morning.

On the way back, my knee seemed to sense the end of our training session for the day and began hurting. As our topographical situation demands an unavoidable final ascent before entering Alcoy, DuBois undertook the chivalrous task of giving me a bit of a push up hill to ease my articular strain. Rolling in to town I split off with the other Chris to go visit Isaac, my Venezuelan friend who I roomed with two years ago (Speaking of Venezuelan roomates, the word on the street is that Jackson is going to be riding for Aqua Sapone of Italy). I talked to him about papers and visas and other such bureaucratic nonsense in regard to finding work. The highlight of my day was to discover that his boss may need another part-time mechanic within a month or so. I would be working 3-4 hours a day 5 days a week. I have my fingers crossed.

It is very cold here without heat. This afternoon's task is to find tahini in order to make Hummus.

So far the highlight of my week has been to hear that I get to talk to KO from India this Saturday!

-SWS

The Textile Industry of Spain



Because several people have asked, I figured I should mention that this video was taken outside our kitchen, in our little outside patio thing where we dry our clothes and eat our meals.

Wednesday, February 21, 2007

To the beach and back...





Just a few minutes short of 6 hours, I rode by myself to the beach and back. If you wanna get out the map, I kinda got a little lost after Gandia after missing the turn through Oliva and Pego. I went over the mountains both ways, and it was fantastic. The clouds were rolling in, so it got a bit chilly.

El Cubano va como un avion.

Went training with the guys, but everyone split off at one point or another and it ended up just being the Cuban and I. We rolled for 3.5 hrs, with 3 significant climbs which he hammered and I tried to stay within sight. He’s really strong, and it’s fun just being able to hang for 30 minutes of a 45 minute climb. It turns out the last climb had been featured in another stage of a Vuelta de Espana a few years ago. I could easily see why.
Big day on the bike… on of my biggest ever. And now I'm super tired. Rest of the day included a nap and tons of food.
One quote comes to mind: “Cyclists never stand when they can sit, and never sit when they can lie down.”

The Team Ride (aka Epicness)

Short version:
First team ride was epic. When we weren’t going down, we were going up. We went fast. I’m tired. It was fricking awesome.

Long version:
Today was the first team ride. I was a bit nervous because Jose mentioned it on Friday. He smiled as he said “dos cientos kilometros” (200km) and that we would be on a few climbs that were in the Vuelta a few years ago; with his right hand, he mimicked a motorcyclist revving the engine. That meant that we were going to go fast.
Sam and I got there and everyone was getting ready… there were about twenty guys milling around, and Jose was preparing the team car – it would be filled with water and food, two mechanics that wouldn’t do anything all day but watch the fun, a masseuse (not sure what for unless someone starts cramping? Again, I think he just didn’t have anything better to do today), and one of the rider’s girlfriends. A few of the guys looked real fast, and one of they guys had a Liberty Seguros uniform, which means he was on their B team last year. (That’s a very legit European pro team.) The Cuban was looking as chill and in charge as always. The clear leader.
I don’t think I’ve climbed so much in my life. The warm up was uphill and a bit harder than expected. When we weren’t descending, we were climbing. When I had a chance to look around, I’d realize how cool the surroundings were: one of the climbs was about 5-10 minutes, straight up the side of a steep green valley, and you could see the white-bordered, one lane road show itself as it snaked its way up and over bumps in the hillside toward the top of the pass. There were no houses, no villages, nothing… just this road sitting there in silence. It was cool to be part of a couple dozen guys rolling quickly around steep corners, “dancing on the pedals” to the top of each pass.
The descents were nuts of course. But I descended so much today, I feel like I’m about 50 times better than at the beginning of the day. For the sake of my mom, I’ll avoid descriptions of tight corners with oncoming traffic and no guardrails. At least I wear a helmet, with all these other nutjobs just chilling with their headbands and sunglasses and soon-to-be-gelled hair. One descent was about 20 minutes long, all with a view of the ocean. I saw a CSC rider climbing the other direction, and we also saw another European pro team rolling around with their huge team van in tow. The top of the climb passed through a row of huge, dry craggy peaks that looked like something from Goat Rocks or Smith Rocks. We stopped at a gas station at the bottom to eat some apples and drink some Coca Cola. I remember noting that we were at hour three, which meant about two hours left. Good God.
Again, these views are what I saw when I looked around, which wasn’t often. I’d love to do this ride again sometime soon by myself, nice and slow. But that wasn’t the case today. We’d go pretty quick up the climbs and always keep it moving on the downhills. There was one section of flat where we started a rotation (at Jose’s bidding). A few of the weaker guys started getting tired, and one of the strong guys pretty much ripped one of their legs off… it was entertaining.
(Explanation: In a rotation, there are two lanes, a slow lane you drift backward in and a fast lane you move forward in. After you move into the slow lane at the front of the pack, it’s the next guy’s job to get just in front of you in a nice way so that you can get the draft right away. But if he takes a while to do it, you’re stuck there working longer than you want. In this way, you can make it harder on someone. But this is usually frowned upon because you’re trying to work together in a pace line. In this case, I don’t think anyone likes this guy, and everyone could tell he was going to get dropped anyway, so why not on the flat?)
The last climb was big, and I was at the disadvantage of not knowing when it would end. But everyone started really picking it up… that is, all of a sudden we were strung out, you could hear people’s heart rates through their throats, and gaps started forming. I said, “F*** it” and just started going hard like everyone else. One pleasant surprise: when you drop off the front group, but you’re still going fast enough to be near the car, Jose will let you draft to try and catch up to the front group. He kept telling me to get closer to the back of the car by holding his hand out the window with his thumb and forefinger an inch apart, meaning that the five inches that separated my front tire from the bumper was far too much. And what’s more, sometimes he’ll call you to the driver side with his window rolled down, hold out his hand, and slingshot you forward at 25 mph uphill. It’s nothing short of frickin’ ridiculous and way fun. A couple times a let out a squeal, yes a squeal, of delight and fear.
We were flying. There was a pack of 3-4 guys in front of me, and about 3 of us were battling to stay in contact, sometimes with the help of the car. The rest were scattered across the mountain. I cracked (bonked) maybe 5 minutes from the top, but kept it going well enough. You can feel the lack of glucose in your quads, and you can feel your lack of blood sugar. You can’t think anything useful because you’re so high on endorphins.
At the top, I knew this was an epic ride… easily one of the biggest, hardest, most beautiful rides of my life. So I tried to keep my legs from shaking in exhaustion, shoved my face full of a tiny bit more food from the car, guzzled water, and rode the 20 km back home with one of the other guys. According to my power meter, I burned far more than 1000 calories in just one hour.
Today I was reminded of the pain and exhaustion and inspired by the thrill of cycling.
We had a team dinner afterward. A monster plate of penne pasta: you could either pour a crappy red sauce on it, or olive oil and salt. There was some salad, and then a plate with a half chicken on it. Then some yogurt. Afterward, a small espresso. We had a team chat about things being fun and games, but when things are serious, they’re serious. That’s about what I got out of it.
Now I’m sitting in our shitty apartment, fully content with spending 5 monster hours on the bike. Tomorrow, we clean the apartment.

El Mejor Agua


(A few weeks ago)

Beautifully sunny and windy for today’s 4.5 hour ride. Did a loop with Sam through awesome tunnels, sometimes half a mile long, and along great countryside. Then did yesterday’s ride in reverse, stealing four tangerines along the way. At the tops of the climbs, you zip up your shirt and put your glasses back on and look back at the valley you came from, and you feel light enough to climb another mountain. But it’s time to descend.

Felix (El Canario) pointed out a water fountain a few days ago in a small town we often pass through. I rolled up to it, filled my bottle, and glanced up to see a (really) old man walking towards me. He launched into a speech glorifying the quality of the water from this very fountain, talking about how it is the “milk” of the town (I think I heard him right), how it comes down from the mountains and travels underneath the buildings, and that people from all over come to drink from it. I had a great time chatting with him, and as I pulled away I had a taste from my bottle and it really might be the best water I’ve ever had.

The Road to Ibi

Internet Fiasco and Introduction

Dearest Readers, Well, it’s been awhile, hasn’t it? All the while bearing the weighty admission of our ineptitude as punctual foreign correspondents, our blemished titles of dependable and devoted progeniture, we hereby attempt to provide an account of our most recent and still fresh trials and tribulations, in the hopes that we may set forth the standard for posts to come, both in their expediency (for we have only just now acquired internet access) and in their quality of content and style. For fear of being eternally charged with the weight of a celestia so filled with neglected Mercurial responsibilities, we beg forgiveness, for as we lack well-pointed hats and winged shoes, so too our shoulders fall short of that titanic task of sky-bearing. Alas! Our trade makes us more proud of the Vastus Medialis than the northerly Pectoralis Minor.

Posts below, which actually have earlier birth dates than this propitiative introduction, will fill you all in on the bulk of our initial activities on the way to, and once arrived at, our current situation at Gusano Center. The present objective is to provide a history of our struggle against The Great Beast of Spanish Bureaucracy, or more properly, against one of its myriad debilitating appendages which had rooted itself firmly like a sluggish tumor into the unprotected flesh of our communications provider’s soft underbelly.

The medium through which this post is conveyed is the very treasure of the battlefield for which we so heroically sacrificed our life-energy these past two weeks. And indeed, the scene smolders still; Jose retains a hint of residual annoyance due to our pertinacity, the modem peters in and out of functioning status, and our greatest casualty, Chris Duffy, tragically is still mired behind enemy lines, incapable of connecting to the world wirelessly due to outdated equipment.

The whole misadventure began when Chris betrayed to Jose the importance of this treasured amenity to the Gringo cause. Having just insulted Jose’s plans for our living situation by moving out of his apartment and into the team’s (which aside from lacking internet or phone connections, had no heat, has no heat), we had unassumingly provided Jose with a stinging “You asked for it” opportunity where the delay of said service reminded us daily of our fall from a prelapsarian Eden to the barren and unprotected quarters of independence across town. We were at Jose’s mercy because he was the financier of the whole pursuit.

For some time, we were without a mode of communication to Jose, save for undertaking to ride to his apartment where he likely would not have been, to talk to him in person. Finally he found for us an old cell phone to use, so that we could more effectively prod at him to get the wheels moving in the direction of internet service. Of course, he still held firm the reins of power, since we could only ring him once and hang up, waiting for him to return the call. In Spain, one is charged per telephone call instead of having a flat rate. After several days of persuasion through visits to the apartment and telephone tag games, a strange little nervous man showed up at our door. Chris was overjoyed at the sight of the ‘ONO’ logo on the breast of this person’s shirt. Incapable of successfully expressing his excitement in spanish verbiage, he welcomed the little man behind the glasses into our dumpy, poorly lit flat, with a happy full bodied bellow of “ohhhh si si”. We talked things over with this ONO salesman, were assured of a free installation and modem, and were lacking only an account number to seal the deal. He allowed us the use of his phone, but Jose did not answer. After repeated dialing, Jose answered. When I told him I needed an account number, he suddenly hung up and was indifferent to our repeated redials. To have come so close, only to fall short by ten digits! No matter, we thought. Once we have the account number, we can call this shifty-eyed little man back and give him the information.

The next day, we discovered that Jose’s annoyance when he asked us incredulously what had made us believe he would just hand over his account number. It turns out that the guy who came had come just by coincidence- he was merely in the neighborhood making sales calls. Jose had wanted to work his magic, to ‘wheel and deal’ as they say, with ONO to get the cheapest price possible (He’s not called ‘The Worm’ for nothing). After much discussion in not very much time (Jose speaks quite rapidly, as he does everything else), we finally arrived at the agreement that Jose would consent to giving ONO man a call to relay his account information. We were told that the installer would come within a day or two.

Three days later, we walked all the way to the ONO headquarters office to talk to someone directly, to see if someone could get out to help us before the weekend. The one secretary at her post was busy calming down a middle aged women who sounded like she was ready to have a heart-attack arguing against unfair charges. While waiting, we made use of the two sample internet connections. Actually one and one-half. The second, to which Chris delegated me, had a malfunctioning screen setting which oriented all icons and banners 90 degrees from their true normal orientation. After a stiff neck had firmly set in from my cocked sideways gaze, the plate cleared and we were up to bat.

The pressure was on to work my pleading magic; Chris had been coaching me on our goals, our plan of attack, our demands which had to be directed toward this mouthpiece of some part of the ungainly beast, or the secretary of it’s right pinky toe perhaps, against which we had committed our cause. The goals, the plan of attack, the demands, they all seemed to run into a brick wall when we were told simply that the installer was coming on monday at 4pm. I asked if it could be changed but she said it was out of her control. You learn in Spain why people are so relaxed. It is because no one has any control over anything. She said it so cheerfully, as if she had come to terms long ago with the fact that her job was to indulge customers’ in their fantastical assumption that ONO would place them in direct contact with someone who could offer the clientele more than their condolences for maltreatment.

Back to our apartment we went with our tails between our legs. Then came the long awaited hour. Then, two hours later, came the long awaited dude. He got the process going. We were sure we had made it through the thick of the tumorous appendage. But we were wrong. Once again the beast raised it’s massive horned toe and pinned us helplessly to the ground- the installer claimed that he didn’t have permission to install the modem for free, because it wasn’t written up in his order papers. You know, it was out of his control. So, he left and we had to call Jose again.

Jose said we had to find the papers that we originally signed with shifty eyes so that we could obtain his contact info. Duffy had taken the papers as a reference for our address so that when he talked to the airlines about his missing bike, he could provide them with said information. We waited for Duffy to return. When he returned, he emptied his pockets and we found the paper balled up. The number hung on for dear life on the corner of a torn edge. We called Jose. He didn’t call back. We waited. We called Jose. He called us back and we gave him the number. He said he would talk to squinty eyes. We called Jose later to ask if he had secured us a free modem once again, to which he answered in the affirmative. When was the installer coming? It was out of his control.

We went to the office again the following day to see about advancing the visit from Mr. Installer. To our surprise, no visit was scheduled: that was something that required coming down to the office to take care of, which we had only done on a whim. I asked why the installer hadn’t been made aware of our free modem agreement. She answered with an affected, sympathetic strain to her voice, that the installers have no way of knowing what sort of agreement the clients and the salesmen come to. Yes, apparently. Such a line of communication would be far too much to assume!

We scheduled the visit for the following day, which is now this day, and our happy little story comes to a close. The battle against our enemy was not won, but we can safely say that the treasure has been secured. We have weathered the worst that the pinky toe could administer, though the beast’s right arm will surely prove a more robust enemy when we attempt to secure for ourselves Spanish Visas. At least that campaign doesn't threaten the same lack of communication that this one has. Until soon...

The Move

Hello Boys and Girls, it’s Sam and Chris online and posting once again. Just now it’s me, Sam (Gringo 1) speaking. I know Chris has been at work to keep you all updated during our internet connection dry spell, and I am following his lead. I haven’t read any of his posts though, so please forgive me for any repetitive content. The day on which I write is Sunday the 11th.

Last night was our first night of independence, though the occasion felt far from celebratory. We told Jose that we wanted to exchange apartments with the three riders who lived formerly in the apartment in which we currently inhabit, allowing them to take our places in Jose’s own apartment. The main reason was to insure that come May, when two more American riders arrive for the summer, we could all live together. If we were to split up as planned, I think the program would have felt less cohesive and more disorganized or patched together; already some of us are riding for different teams. Another key reason for moving was to escape the ever watchful eye of our director, to be able to do our own thing without the constant (though lighthearted) jokes at our expense. Now a weight has been lifted from our shoulders because there is not the periphery feeling that we are long-term guests in our Jefe’s home, but that we’re in charge of ourselves.

The trade off’s are numerous. First, the change only reinforces the stereotypes indulged in by Jose and company; namely, that American’s are closed-off and cold, uninterested in exerting an effort to intermix with the spanish-speakers. Second, this place is a dump. The dumpiness is not quaint or appealing in any way whatsoever. For example, the Cat in the Hat comes to mind. Upon arrival we realized that cleaning is simply not possible because any rag or cleaning implement is likely to be equally, if not more, dirty than the surface on which it slides. The real discovery was the secondary ‘fridge to be’. We were told not to close it so that it can ‘air out’. Inside the insulated walls of this marvel of bacterial growth is an odor so putrid that it achieves and surpasses its role as icon of the lifestyle of this apartment’s former occupants.

From the patio in which this fine appliance is planted, we move to the kitchen through a doorway which demands a twisting motion for unhindered passage. Once inside, let us examine the filthy greasy grime that encrusts every surface, less those areas where accumulated dust has prevented adhesion. The sponges linger in a tupperware containing mildewed dish soap, and appear to be living organisms of their own: we wash what silverware we must with our hands. With ammonia and toilet paper Chris and I clean, designating a small quarantine space within the greater biohazard sphere of things, taking care to keep clear of the pot full of cooked and molding lentils. Chris asks me where to put something and I said somewhere clean. We realized the humor in this request: you know things are bad when “put it somewhere clean” is a statement of great specificity. Chris tells me he knows it’s bad when the safest spot for cleaned silverware is in his pant pocket.

Once past the kitchen we move to the bedrooms where an inflatable female greets the eye. We find her stored above the free standing closet in Chris’s room, complete with ports of entry in three locations. Chris tells me a priority is removal of the doll, which he undertakes with great care to avoid contracting a freak strain of herpes. In my bedroom I find the sheets to be curiously greasy and or moist, at the very least damp, from what we can only imagine. The treasures we dug up included a portable digital speaker system which at this time is our only source of ambient music, two old school mavic wheel bags, a 1980’s exte ondo polyfoam wind vest, one package of microwaveable popcorn, the remnants of a 40 oz. peach whiskey bottle, and some dried herring mixed with deli sliced ham in an uncovered bowl in the refrigerator. The greatest thing of all was finding a box of sawar incense that my dear Lucy had sent me when I was here two years ago. It hadn’t moved from where I left it. Thanks mom!

Breath. So. Tomorrow we have designated as cleaning day. We’re going to sport some thick rubber gloves, buy some new sponges and wiping cloths, break open the ammonia and let it fly. I have also been appointed by Chris as director of interior designing. We’ll see how the cleaning goes tomorrow- Chris just finished a 5 1/2 hour team ride and he is beat. I was really proud to hear that he had finished among the top handful of guys on the team. I know it’s also good because he needed something to lift his spirits after having really come to terms with the loneliness of being in this place (the flat, perhaps Spain as a whole) and it’s state of filthiness. I’m sure you can hear all about it from him.

You may now pause to ask yourself, “Chris and Sam, so faraway on two wheels, is it really worth it to have moved into the new dump?” The heart of the answer to such a question has to do with what I mentioned earlier about living as guests in contrast to living on our own. Let me provide a few anecdotes from our first hours at Jose’s apartment to contextualize the sentiment. The first dinner we cook for ourselves. Jose is out and about, doing whatever it is that he does, Chris and I are boiling a kilo of pasta and putting together a tomato sauce concoction which we look forward to eating together in front of the television where we can enjoy Superman II dubbed in Spanish. Chris is excited to prepare his pan con tomate, which he does as the pasta approaches al dente. The meal comes together, it is a fricking 15 minute masterpiece. The coffee table already has a cloth over it so we set the table and begin to bring in the food. Chris is famished and as a result is tanky. He is ready to go into vacuum mode over his bowl. The bread with tomato, the burgos cheese and olive oil, the pasta in the 6 gallon pot, “it’s all there, ok babe? ok babe?” (D. King) Hmmm, that heavy pot must be rather warm, yes? Indeed. Shall we get something for that? Nah, in a moment. This pasta is so good! No, but in a moment, just a second. Both of us start slightly when Jose storms in through the front door (if he isn’t busy enough to merit a hyperactive pace, he makes himself busy). I think about all the things that we could have possibly done wrong to incur the usual puto gringo scolding. With a clear conscience I let out an inaudible breath of relief. Jose speed walks into the living room on talking on the phone. As he comes to a stop, directly in front of the low table on which we eat, his vantage point for what is about to occur deserves theatrical VIP status. Like clockwork, a loud ‘CRACK!’ bounces up at me from my feet. In a split second I realize that the cloth over the coffee table was hiding not a wood surface but a glass one. The single heavy piece had slit directly down its center with two hairline cracks fissuring out from where the 6 gallon burning hot pot had sat. This unpleasant sight is only revealed to us after jose grabs the pot with one hand, lifting it up in one fell swoop to shoulder height, which launches its glass top into a graceful arch over his head and down to the linoleum floor where it shatters into a thousand shards, leaving nothing but its metallic skeletal rim intact. There is a second of peaceful silence before we are chewed out, before Jose asks us how any University is willing to accept us as students. Later, from our compassionate ally (Jose’s part-time girlfriend) Jose receives an e-mail which suggests that it is not our fault, that he can’t expect much better from two guys whose president is totally inept and idiotic. Great.

The next incident followed within 24 hours. The pan con tomate that chefy prepares was so mouthwatering that we decided to bring it back to the menu for night two. As we were going about our kitchen business, my good old training pal Largo rang our buzzer. We were so engaged by the dual stimulation of a visiting friend (and all the linguistic acrobatics involved) and the somewhat less fantastic pasta from the night before that it was several minutes before Chris went into the kitchen to get the toasted bread and began shouting expletives interspersed with warnings of ‘fire! fire!’

In a panic I ran into the kitchen where I saw flames jumping out of the mouth of the oblong yellow toaster. Upon a closer, frantic inspection I saw the charred remains of the doomed pan of pan con tomate. Chris had began to laugh and continued shouting ‘fuego! fuego!’, which he found quite amusing. All I could think about was stopping our little bonfire and preventing an addition to Jose’s list of reasons to insure your house for when the Gringos come. I picked up (can you sense the heroism? I mean, picture Alfie in Annie Hall dealing with the Lobsters) the toaster and held it upside down into the sink where the whole wheat coals fizzled out.

Largo, by this time, had come to observe our hysterics, and then shut the kitchen door. Chris had opened both terrace doors in an attempt to clear the thick haze of smoke. With two towels from the bathroom we waved the air, which did nothing. We realized that we needed an airflow, so we threw open the door and ran down the hall into the two bedrooms to open the windows there, only to discover that Largo, still laughing at us, had opened the apartment door to the second floor. The smokey hot air danced slowly towards the bedrooms, to our horror, and out into the apartment building main hallway. This same air was especially fond of the bathroom right across the way from the kitchen, which is where it accumulated into the greatest concentration. After about three minutes more of towel waving had occurred, Largo decided it would be a good time to get going. His departure bared to me the glaring irony of the situation; Largo has spent the last two years in vocational training to be a full-time fireman.

Eventually Jose did arrive, and yes his entire apartment smelled like campfire, but he went easy on us, I mean, come on, George Bush and all. So although our new home is not immune to the risks of furniture damage or small campfires in the kitchen, at least we will be the only ones to witness our blunders. It’s come time to say goodnight for the time being. Chris and I just completed my virgin viewing of TOP GUN. To give you an idea of his obsession with the movie, Fly Into The Danger Zone is on his training playlist. Yeah Chris, take it to the danger zone.

Getting rid of evidence

Mandarinas

(Thursday, February 8, 2007)


Woke up before Sam and snagged a quick bowl of cereal before we both headed out to meet some other guys on the team. The Canario (Canary Island guy) was waiting alongside El Cubano (a teammate from Cuba) and another local rider who lives in Alcoy. We all rode together along the same stretch as the day before, but Sam turned back when we started going up hill so as to be cautious with his recovering knee.

This particular climb wasn’t too long, but the road was narrow and wound its way up the hillside, crossing old bridges and gently rising until we had a good view of the small towns below. I could tell the Cubano is fast; we didn’t go hard, but you can tell when easy is really easy for somebody. I look forward to being on his team for sure, although I probably won’t see him in the race for very long.

The descent was cool: windy and fast and I wasn’t always sure how wise it was to follow their wheels, even though you would think they’d be taking it slow because they’re not wearing helmets. (It’s apparently not cool to wear helmets.)

Amid the olive orchards on the other side of the small mountain we rode past a tangerine orchard; I stole a couple but between El Cubano and El Canario, they must have had a few more than a dozen stuffed into their bike jerseys. It made for a good snack on the drizzly road back to Alcoy.

The rest of the day involved eating, napping, Sam cutting my hair, shopping for food, eating, reading, and now finally, bed.

My First Ride

(Wednesday February 7, 2007)

We finally woke up at noon and I rode for a couple hours with one of the kids from the team. He’s 19, from the Canary Islands, and is hoping to someday be a professional cyclist. He showed me the basic 2 hour route that we’ll do pretty much every easy day we have. Riding through town was exhilarating because I was trying to get a good look at Alcoy’s people and its buildings while weaving through traffic and avoiding motos. He spoke no English, but I was able to chat it up pretty well. Biking is a perfect setting for learning a new language: you’re immersed for several hours at a time, and there’s really nothing else to do besides pedal.

Getting situated... sort of.

The guy in charge of the program, Jose, picked us up from the Alicante airport last night. We’ll be living in his apartment for the next few months. It’s far nicer than expected: good kitchen, good living space, good closets, etc. Sam’s stuff didn’t make the plane, so I did a quick unpacking job and we hit the hay around 3am.

I woke up in the middle of the night, stumbled my way to the bathroom, but noticed the sunrise on the way back to bed. Something about the fresh air and the view made me feel like a boy on the edge of a forest with a brand new slingshot.

On the way to Spain

I'm writing this first post while sitting in Madrid's airport, waiting for my flight to Alicante. Sam should be getting here in time for that same flight. I'm watching Sideways, the movie about a couple of losers - one a depressed and failed author and the other a actor who feels a need to cheat on his fiancé - and their tour of Santa Barbara wine country. They're so lame you almost feel sorry for them, but it's got some funny parts.

I caught a cold only a few days before flying, and it's made the travelling a bit easier because I haven't been sure if I was suffering from the cold or from sleep deprivation. The flight over the Atlantic was practically empty, which was rad. I was stretched across seven seats of course! It's a bit nice just drifting from plane to checkpoint to plane along with the crowd; the congestion at one point made me "hear the ocean" in my left ear for a good thirty minute. But I still had plenty of clarity to hear the way the British talk while I was milling around Heathrow. They have no problem announcing over the loud speaker that you are indeed "delaying the flight" if you are late to the gate. No dressing it up. Great people watching while I could keep my eyes open. I kept quite a bit more quiet because I felt that anything I said would be met with a face of disapproval of my manners and my American upbringing. You find yourself rephrasing things with "may" and "would" and "pardon" and "rubbish." But I will try to refrain from changing the intonation of my questions.... (Jen Scales) Lots of shopping all around: Burberry, etc.

I finally plastered my face against the plexiglass window as we flew into Madrid, and I started to recognize that I was getting closer to my destination. Roundabouts and churches. I started hearing some Spanish around me and arriving I saw a few kisses on the cheek for greetings. I began seeing mullets. People dress nicer. And this airport is rad; it was definitely designed on the computer before construction (I can just imagine the design in some early ray-tracing software) and I think it's a bit influenced by Gaudi, if I were to guess.

I'm going to find my gate, but I've been eying those ham and cheese sandwiches, and I may grab one on the way. I was worried about becoming vegetarian this trip with Sam at the helm, but with all the ham and sausage around, I am now at ease.